Such was the clamour for Jeni Sae-Yang’s yum cha, dumpling classes and mahjong social club that the original restaurant in Woonona just couldn’t contain it all.

April meant a move to Thirroul to larger surrounds, and they’ve taken to it like a duck to well, you know. Speaking of, the duck remains the absolute must-order on a menu that also includes subtly scented steamed coral trout with ginger and spring onion along with dim sum of all stripes.

But which duck? Is it the devilled duck eggs, sold by the piece? The duck wontons, juicy and sweet and drowning in chilli oil? Or charry lettuce stir-fried in duck fat? All good calls, but then the headline act of course, is the Peking duck, presented on a platter with whisper-thin pancakes and condiments. It’s good, but better is the sunny tone and sense of community spirit. Maybe heaven is a place on earth.

Good to know: A former Bentley bartender has taken over cocktails, and they’re really something.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.