Canines and cab francs in the laneway, twirls of anchovy on toasted brioche fingers, and “mystery wine” by the glass (free if you can name the grape and country of origin). This corner wine bar has a knack for making vino (and all things vino-adjacent) fun, but patrons come for more than the lo-fi drops and casual European vibes.

Classic plates are zhuzhed with whatever produce is good that week, as in the beef tartare, slicked with fermented rhubarb hot sauce and daubs of roasted eggplant mayonnaise under wispy angel-hair fries, or the housemade casarecce tangled with crisp enoki, rosemary and umami-powered mushroom XO.

DSE’s $28 Monday steak frites special remains one of the more joyful ways to sabotage a booze-free week before it’s begun. A treat with a glass of Denton pinot noir.

Best for: Cosy Euro-styled date nights and wine-charged afternoons

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.