With eucalyptus hues, First Nations art, a corrugated bar and a commitment to native ingredients, Corella is very comfortable in its bush capital home. And it’s the kind of relaxed spot to crave – low on hype, noise and bling, but high on technique, with service that, while somewhat laconic, is still engaging and warm.

Australian flora is seamlessly integrated across the menu: a just-pink pork chop comes with a peach-based sauce balanced by the acidity of Davidson plum; native spices bring some punch and heat to a standout plate of cabbage, roasted and partly charred, with creme fraiche for acidity; finger lime brings zing to super-smooth beef tartare.

Cocktails extend the native narrative, but the wine list attends more to Europe than the local terroir. Comfortable in its surrounds? Absolutely. But equally comfortable in its own skin.

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