With acclaimed new sibling restaurants in full flight on either side, it could be easy to overlook this Australia Street stalwart. But you don’t celebrate 10 thriving years in Newtown unless you’re doing something right, and chef Cian Mulholland is retaining what we love – charcuterie, tinned things – while also keeping it fresh.

Tuna wrapped in shiso leaves with a puree of beetroot roasted in coffee grounds makes no sense on paper but works brilliantly on the plate, the earthy flavours combining around deliciously rare fish. Steak tartare is an excellent rendition, too, if only it wasn’t blitzed with so much parmigiano.

Don’t skip over sides: beans in a bright cavolo nero sauce with chopped charcuterie would be a satisfying meal in itself. The bar and bistro are character-filled and cosy, staff are friendly and efficient, drinks are as good as ever. Visit the new, sure, but the OG’s still got it.

Must-order dish: Anything in a can: the classic mar-tinny, imported anchovies and flan-in-a-can all hit the mark.

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