Semi-hidden in plain sight on the curve of Darling Street before Balmain becomes Rozelle, Cicci is the cosiest of cosy neighbourhood tratts. Blackboard specials, a serious meat slicer, loaves on the counter: tick, tick, tick.

Co-owner Peter Zuzza’s father, Giuseppe, is also credited as the guy who brought tiramisu to Australia by putting it on the menu at Darcy’s in Paddington in 1977. Giuseppe’s very good (maybe perfect) tiramisu recipe lives on today, but most dishes on Cicci’s concise menu are the work of Naomi Lowry.

The cotoletta alla Milanese of juicy pork, crisp sage, and crunchy breadcrumbs has a loyal and local fanbase, and tangy caponata is a deep red mix of long-cooked eggplant, tomato, sultanas and pinenuts, made for spooning on grilled bread and drinking with something fruit-forward and Sicilian from a wine list is rich with dynamite producers.

Come for a crisp Andrea Occhipinti Procanico with molten mozzarella in fried carroza bread, perhaps. Stay for a zippy Inkwell Grillo with mafaldine glossed in cavaolo nero pesto with a whisper of gorgonzola cream.

Good to know: Zuzza also runs online wine store Atelier DeVino.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.