It’s billed as “your neighbourhood bistro”. Easily said. But this long-time local matches the pitch – a converted house with surrounding greenery, affable service, beaut food, good wine.

Under the yellow-striped awning or along the banquettes, everyone’s doing pâté, tartare and steak frites. But you might also spread lightly smoky trout rillettes onto dark barley-rye crisps then head confit duck-wards, the meat flaked on soft lentils and juiced up with figs. Pepper steak, served blushing in a punchy gravy, is another fine idea, and co-owner Stewart Parsons’ reserve wine list can match it with an interesting gamay.

Quartered iceberg dredged in sheep’s cheese “snow”, and onion-y peas a la francaise are the sides you’re looking for. And the light and lovely caramelised apple millefeuille? Yep, we’ll have what everyone else is having.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.