Despite the name, Blue Ocean has no water views, but the clatter of chopsticks and the happy hum of diners is proof that nobody at this popular location cares in the least.

Patrons are here for excellent Cantonese fare delivered with rapid fire service in generous portions. Every second table has a plate of the cold-cut free-range chicken – its plump succulence and glistening layer of gelatin is a wonder of textbook mastery.

Live seafood prices are some of the best value in town: expect to see mud crab or lobster atop glossy noodles, while live eel is also popular, stir-fried with black bean.

The expansive menu runs from seafood chow mein to deep-fried pigeon to sweet and sour pork (order the Peking pork rib for a less-sweet alternative, served on the bone). And free red bean soup for dessert? Sold.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.