Maurice Terzini has left the building, but opening chef Steven Sinclair still helms this CBD favourite where the food is Euro-bistro classic and the vibe is office-chic. You know you’re in the city by your besuited fellow diners and the superior feeling of the room’s elevated position above the light rail’s scuttling commuters.

The food is serious too: a Jenga-style potato hash is smeared with whipped cod roe, while the risotto cacio e pepe makes you wonder why you’d ever make it with pasta. Then there’s the wagyu skewer relaxing in a puddle of biting salsa verde to help erase memories of a tough day in the boardroom. Or maybe it’s Berkshire pork cotoletta with sharp mustard, or butter-soft Southern Ranges eye fillet, seasoned and rested with expert attention.

It’s easy to overlook, but Bistro George still confidently struts that fine line between Steak After Work and Big Night Out.

Good to know: The food is still sensational and the service holds up, but you’ll share the room with big tables of city folk.

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