For the nation’s political class, Beltana Farm offers a discreet location for plotting and paddock-to-plate dining with little risk of missing a leadership spill.

The modern farmhouse of polished concrete, timber and glass is more luxe than rustic, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out to a surrounding truffle orchard. The kitchen is in lock-step, delivering stylish but uncomplicated plates – suitable for grazing or more serious dining.

Expect small plates like briny Merimbula oysters, farm damper with macadamia dukkah, or bluefin tuna seared over charcoal and dressed with roasted garlic toum. Main courses channel gastropub comfort in smoked lamb rump and burnt pear or a half-roasted chicken with cavolo nero, mushrooms and onion jus, while desserts present classic flavours in modern form, such as freeze-dried chocolate mousse with raspberry sorbet.

Service is warm and the wine list sticks to the regional theme, which considering the setting, feels just about right.

Good to know: Yurt or farmhouse accommodation available.

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