A labyrinth of light-rail works nearby may well have added to Bar Rochford’s mystique, if not the commitment of its patrons. Good vibes and the warmth of vintage vinyl continue to entice passers-by up the narrow staircase to a sepia-tinged space of high ceilings and polished concrete.

Take a hunter-green stool at the central bar for the latest house cocktail or something oxidative or orange from the progressive wine list. And for group grazing, try the communal bench under the large arched window. Alisdair Brooke-Taylor brings Yorkshire gastropub smarts following the recent departure of long-term chef Josh Lundy.

Thankfully, Rochford’s signature potato galette survives, albeit with a bolder kimchi garnish. Wild kingfish crudo, dressed with lively mandarin and finger lime, leads the larger snacks. And a main course of nicely crusted pork collar is lifted by mint and sorrel. But as always, it’s the package that seals it.

Good to know: Since Rochford is upstairs in the heritage Melbourne Building, access is by stairs only

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.