Top-tier Vietnamese restaurants east of Marrickville are rare, but this lo-fi spot tucked inside The Cannery in Rosebery breaks the mould.

Sure, the bun bo hue may be more pared back than a traditional version, but here the rice noodle soup with spicy pork, meltingly tender beef and a hint of lemongrass is packed with enough flavour to have you slurping an entire bowl.

But then that would mean skipping the signature dish, an enormous and highly crisp banh xeo, the showstopping crepe at its best when filled with roast pork, king prawns, bean sprouts and fried shallots, but also appealing turned vegan and stuffed with pumpkin. Fill a lettuce leaf with a wodge, add herbs and pickles, dunk it in sweet, spicy nuoc cham and repeat.

Specials add interest, and while pig’s head nuggets with shiso and pickled red onion aren’t strictly classic, with a Bia Saigon lager in hand, they feel just right.

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