Fashioned as a tribute to head chef Hun Loong’s grandmother, who loved putting on a family feast, Amah by Ho Jiak offers unpretentious but polished homestyle Malaysian.

Forget fussy plating, small portions or restraint: Amah is like a matriarch who expertly and lovingly infuses every bite of every dish with flavour and won’t send anyone home hungry.

Knobbled, charred skewers of chicken thigh with chunky peanut sauce are as generous as they are juicy, while a small mountain of wok-fried clams come slathered in sticky black pepper sauce. Better still is a street food-inspired soup that piles fresh greens, two types of noodles, plump crustaceans and more into an addictive, lightly spicy broth.

It’s a versatile spot; you could drop by for a colourful cocktail and a multi-textured mango ice and coconut cream post-dinner, or settle in for a live lobster feast. Amah surely would be proud.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.