Sydney’s having a Hellenic moment, with sleek new Greek joints popping up like springtime oregano, but despite a few ownership shake-ups, this stalwart is still blistering pita and sending wave after wave of fall-apart lamb shoulder through its lofty dining room.

Octopus is braised until yielding, then charred for a smoky hit, and wagyu souvlaki, stuffed with lamb mince and paired with herby buckwheat tabbouleh, is a textural rhapsody. Not every plate sings quite as soulfully (spanakopita leans a little too hard on the spinach), but the loukoumades, golden, sticky, and tempered with chocolate pagoto, hit a perfect final note – a compelling reason to signal for a glass (or two) of ouzo.

Alpha’s not trying to compete with the new wave, it’s just doing what it’s always done: turning out heartfelt food with a touch of fire.

Must-order: Alpha’s wood-fired lamb shoulder is the stuff of Greek legend.

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