Gray & Gray

This walk-in-friendly wine bar takes its name from the solicitors’ office that used to occupy the site. Inspiration comes from Georgia as well as Russia, co-owner Boris Portnoy’s homeland. A Georgian language cheat sheet adorns the side wall, as does a list of by-the-glass wines from Austria, Slovenia and the Loire.

Lily McGrath, the Good Food Guide 2024 Young Chef of the Year, is in the kitchen cooking one-bite beetroot hash with whipped potato and salmon roe, and charred lamb ribs rich with coriander, garlic and marigold. The boat-shaped bread khachapuri arrives bubbling with brinza cheese and a raw yolk that cooks as it’s stirred in.

Before all of that, though, ask staff to reserve a slice of the Russian honey cake medovnik. The 10-layer creation is made at All Are Welcome bakery next door and often sells out.