“Cheers!” Plastic cups of milk tea are chimed by banquet tables celebrating in joyous clamour, and the rest of the dining room is unfazed, clinking chopsticks against porcelain bowls whilst chattering in a stream of Cantonese. Close your eyes and you could be in downtown Hong Kong. Open them again and you’re in the middle of sleepy Telopea.

Tony and Jessie Peng are the husband-and-wife owners of the restaurant, which started as an online business selling mackerel-based fish balls. A photograph-heavy binder menu is crammed with Hong Kong classics (hello, curry beef brisket and those fish balls) but there are less-famous gems too, such as pan-fried lotus root cake.

Word to the wise: don’t skip the soups, including a version of “Buddha jumps over the wall” that’s a riot of abalone, sea cucumber, scallop and longan fruit, with a broth that is its own savoury wonder.

Must order: “Fishman steamed rice” with the sea-sweet aromas of dried prawns and scallops, toothfish and fresh squid.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.