Paramount Food Court has weathered many changes. But within its mirrored and stone-trimmed perimeter, this canteen stands strong, still attracting some of the longest queues. Each dish is numbered, photographed and displayed on lightboxes above the counter where you’ll order and take a buzzer. Its manic beeping means showtime.

Som tum (#20) arrives fiery and tangy: raw cabbage, papaya and guava tumbled with fermented crab legs and dense pork loaf. Glossy egg gravy cloaks crisp-fried egg noodles and generous portions of calamari and prawns in lard na (#38). Sambal fried rice (#51) is a slam-dunk of smoky grains, tender eggplant omelette and expertly fried tilapia, paired with restorative chicken broth.

Icy ruam mit (T2) is a party of mango, chunky water chestnut and jelly in coconut milk. You’re not here for five-star surrounds or service; remember that and you’ll soon be in the queue.

Best for: A speedy, informal dinner with a group where variety is king.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.