An urban cellar door - a more convenient place to taste wine, but without any of the romance or scenery of the vineyard - might sound a little odd. But this one has a few secret weapons, including extremely well trained staff and chef Richard Hayes, whose food elegantly straddles the line between modern and classic French cooking.

A tartlet of smooth eggplant topped with white anchovy is buoyed by a hint of tahini. Luxuriant walnut veloute is poured over a tangle of shimeji mushrooms, and shredded rabbit meat comes wrapped tightly in a cabbage leaf with a daub of prune puree.

Sure, much of the wine (especially by the glass) is Glenlofty and Blue Pyrenees, the wineries of Vinesmith’s owners. But the broader list is about 40 per cent non-house wines, mostly French and some of exceptional value. There may not be any vines, but there’s plenty more besides.

Good to know: Downstairs, there’s a flexible a la carte menu that provides snacks or a full meal; in the upstairs bistro, prix-fixe menus are offered at lunch and dinner.

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