A bold red-and-yellow sign hints at the big flavours inside this little restaurant, nestled between a golf shop and a curtain store. Laksa is, naturally, the star – cited by soup enthusiasts as one of Melbourne’s best. The broth is slow-cooked, rich with coconut and heavy on the lemongrass.

Toppings range from classics like seafood, tofu and vegetables to beef rendang set right on top as a generous scoop. Curry puffs, prawn cakes and spring rolls make great companions, especially dipped in the coconut-y broth. You can also have the broth and trimmings served over a bowl of steamed rice.

For the full hawker experience, add an iced Milo or teh tarik to your order. Beyond laksa, Pappa does an enticing line in wok hei-infused noodles – lip-smacking char kwai teow, and hor fun blanketed in silky gravy are two highlights.

Must-order dish: Beef rendang laksa.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.