Double-clothed tables. Art on the walls. Uniformed waiters. What’s that saying about hanging on to things long enough that they eventually come back in style? Buon Ricordo isn’t quite there, but a sympathetic refresh to the dining room is welcome.

Those with a good memory might recall how the original sign is missing the nine from the phone number, and date the restaurant back 30 years at the youngest. In fact, it’s closer to 40. That sort of experience extends to the floor staff, who still revel in tossing hand-cut fettuccine through soft truffled egg at the table, along with veteran sommelier Nick Caraturo who gives expert steers on Friulian wine and digestivi.

An opener of thinly sliced trout dressed with olive oil, tarragon and bottarga is clean and fresh and unfussy, while braciolette reginaldo of veal rolled around spinach, nutmeg and parmesan still somehow captures what Buon Ricordo is all about: pure, timeless comfort.

Good to know: The menu is available for takeaway if you fancy a fancy night in.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.