Everything feels easy here. After-work drinks at the bar, celebratory meals, and most things in-between, take place in this unassuming space. Staff are unpretentious and welcoming, but have a serious eye on quality.

Abrolhos Island scallop is cooked in its shell to a plump pop and adorned with butter faintly imbued with aji chilli. Whole rainbow trout sits atop tarragon and fennel with fermented potato: decadent and simple all at once. Chicken is perhaps served with romano beans, braised almonds and basil.

Every dish is engineered to go with the fun and adaptable wine list, but cocktails, beers and other drinks are just as thoughtfully chosen. Embla is still as dynamic and essential as when it opened a decade ago – if anything, more so. Now it feels integral to who we are as a dining culture.

Must-order dish: There’s a good reason half the room orders the chicken breast: the kitchen works magic with the much-maligned cut.

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