There’s plenty to thank the Metro for, and easy access to this breezy brunch, lunch and dinner spot in North Sydney’s CBD is yet another. Saunter over from the shiny-new Victoria Cross station to find a leafy glasshouse and terrace dotted with tangerine umbrellas framing this sanctuary amid the highrises.

The bar-slash-restaurant from Applejack Hospitality (Bopp & Tone, The Botanist) combines a designer fitout with a hit list of innovative share plates driven by seasonal produce and big flavours.

Snack on lightly battered strips of eggplant sweetened with honey, or a fresh, textural raw salad of South Coast tuna with cucumber, tomato and pepitas in a killer tahini-chilli dressing. Then move to big, rich meats, either slow-cooked or from the grill, including lamb collar with verdant sorrel salsa verde.

Thoughtful service (staff are dab hands with a Coravin wine rec) plus happy hours and DJ sessions with bottomless drinks amp the feel-good vibes.

Good to know: When booking, ask specifically if you want to sit out in the leafy greenhouse.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.