Though the name translates as ‘house number’ and the goal here is to recreate the simple warmth of a home-cooked meal with friends and family, rest assured the sedate but stylish Civico 47 is more than refined enough for a special occasion.

Chef Matteo Zamboni’s food looks beautiful and tastes even better, with big flavours and unexpected nuances at every turn. Highlights include a golden disc of fried cabbage, topped with thinly shaved mortadella and surrounded by a slick of buttermilk, and a quartet of perfectly formed ravioli and bouncy mussels in a sauce rich in citrus and ’nduja smokiness.

Then there’s the stickiest, softest short-rib hidden under paper-thin slices of celeriac, plus a textbook almond parfait studded with candied popcorn for dessert.

Throw in an expansive wine list strong on Italian regions and creative cocktails, and this is a house call we’ll make any time.

Good to know: You can BYO wine at lunch or all day Thursday.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.