It’s all happening. University friends pluck prawns and calamari rings from tom yum broth. Guys tumble in from a bar-crawl to order tamarind-tickled noodles and $1 congee. A good date just got better thanks to stir-fried pipis in an aromatic Thai basil-scented cloud.

It’s noisy and clattery, and there may be a queue snaking up the laneway but that’s forgotten as soon as you’re inside. Named for Bangkok’s Yaowarat Road, this has the same bustle of an eat-street. Ordering is via QR code, and staff are geared for efficiency rather than guidance on the large menu.

But lean into the seafood: fried tofu skin rolls filled with lush crab and pork mince, or fried barramundi pieces piled on betel leaves with peanut and chopped lime. Punchy, pungent and full of surprises, this is another Thai address to know.

Must-order: A trip of pork - char siu, crisp belly and dense spicy sausage - served over rice with a boiled egg and greens.

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