After 12 months shadowing Jeong Kwan – the nun-chef made famous by Chef’s Table – Changhoon and Suhyun Kim now apply the philosophy of temple food (no onion, garlic or ginger) to everything they serve at their debut restaurant. Jerusalem artichokes, baked until tender and sticky with soybean paste, perch on a tiny branch.

Juicy chicken skewers marinated in nuruk, a wild culture, are offset by sweet charred leeks, and pork belly steams in a bamboo basket for bo ssam, the leafy wraps. Crisp-edged and tender flourless mung bean pancakes are brightened with kimchi, mushroom, bean sprouts and water parsley.

Cold noodles are tossed with gochujang, abalone and calamari while carrot and kohlrabi bring crunch. Spare but whole, the 20-seater glows with whitewashed brick, celadon tableware and a blossom branch rising from the communal counter. Each visit lingers like a post-meditation afterglow.

Best for: A restorative, mindful meal on a slow day.

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