Once you’ve scraped delicately seared kangaroo and marrow from the large beef bone they’re served in, you may be invited to use the bone “like a shoey” to take a shot of fat-washed Filipino rum. That’s the first course of the night.

Wood-roasted pig’s head fills tacos, the crackly pork alive with sour calamansi juice and sweet onion jam. Tender butterflied rainbow trout drenched in palapa butter is sweet, spicy and amped up by the fermented shrimp paste, bagoong. Natural wines keep your palate buzzing. The kitchen’s MVP – the wood grill – scorches cabbage until it resembles a glistening sea creature emerging from the darkest depths to change your perception of the vegetable forever.

Attentive staff bring gin sours capped by pandan-chardonnay foam. Pudding-like cassava cake cooked in banana leaf arrives with smoked-butter ice-cream oozing over the top, a blow-the-speakers finale.

Good to know: Best seats are at the chef’s counter overlooking the kitchen.

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