Since coming to Melbourne amid a blast of Michelin-starred glamour in 1991, Philippe Mouchel has raised the bar for French food. Today, you mostly visit his eponymous bistro to glimpse a France of old and its connection to craft. It’s there in the way the steak tartare is cut (by hand, from rump) and in the freshness and bite of parsley and garlic butter bathing fat escargots.

Is that a chicken breast main course? Sure. But it’s cooked over charcoal and served with a confit leg, potato foam and well-flavoured jus, and if you’re going to order breast, this is the one. Service and wine are reliable rather than drawcards, but that doesn’t bother the fans packing the basement room night after night.

Dessert? A seriously chocolatey fondant leads a roll-call of the classics: low risk, high reward.

Good to know: The seasonal lunch special is a steal at $55.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.