You’re in good hands here, and so is the seafood. Owner Van Tran and her family have long provided Melbourne with first-class fish through Footscray shop D&K Live Seafood. That obsession for the oceanic carries over to this quirky restaurant.

The dining room is dressed with vintage furniture, lace tablecloths and cross-stitched cushions. At one end tanks are filled with critters waiting to meet their maker. A southern rock lobster roll bursts with meat and salmon roe. Lozenges of raw scallop are enlivened by lemon and ginger.

Tuna sashimi is so fresh it needs little more than a crank of salt and pepper. Service is akin to a dinner party; Tran may be the sole presence on the floor, and has a penchant for in-depth crustacean conversations. Order a bottle and dive in.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.