Let’s start with the flatbread, a contender for the best snack in the city right now. The fluffy disc topped with melting onion butter and anchovies is a must-order from the check-the-box menu, alongside pre-batched cocktails such as Passioncello, which tastes like a melted Frosty Fruit. The more savoury Ranch Water is matched by punchy Sicilian sausage with herbaceous salmoriglio sauce.

Tunes are turned up and groups at checkered-clothed tables start to mingle over arrosticini lamb skewers – simply barbecued over charcoal with lemon and garlic. Substantial dishes like goat stew could use some refinement, but owners Dani and Oska Whitehart are willing to experiment, as seen with the knockout caramelised custard dessert with a surprise twist of shiitake mushroom.

It’s an affordable, alluring package that’s helping turn this stretch of Rathdowne Street into one of Melbourne’s most interesting places to dine.

Must-order dish: The flatbread. Anchovies are optional on the menu – but we say they’re mandatory.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.