In 1986, two waiters started an Italian-leaning cafe/diner on Fitzroy’s main drag with a plan to serve classic, affordable dishes. They shared the name Mario and a passion for hospitality, something that’s still at the heart of this quirky business nearly 40 years later. The tablecloths are linen, the waitstaff wear ties, yet nothing is over $40, with pours of very drinkable house wine just $11.

Barramundi fillets are golden and tender, with bright mashy peas and fennel, dill and orange salad. Pan-fried gnocchi is both light and hearty, glossy with garlic butter and pops of cherry tomato. The promise of all-day breakfast lures an eclectic crowd: a steady thrum of students, locals and workers, like a Billy Joel song brought to life. Coffee comes strong, and sticky date pudding is drowned in enough butterscotch sauce to slow time. Long live Marios.

Must-order: Penne puttanesca.

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