It’s dressed with neon signs, polished concrete and leather booths, but the city branch of this barbecue king stands out for quality meat. Yukhoe, the raw beef dish dressed with sesame and egg yolk, is a silky contrast to the crisped-up meat you’re here for.

The “Happiness Set” is the smart way in: three cuts of wagyu criss-crossed with fat, plus pork belly sliced and ready for action. Expert grilling by staff shows off the texture of rib finger versus scotch fillet, but the dipping decisions are left to you: punchy soybean ssamjang, earthy sesame oil and salt, or a soy-chilli-onion combo.

Between smoky bites, reach for kimchi, bean sprouts and other banchan. As the grill cools, mul-naengmyeon – cold buckwheat noodles in an icy, vinegary broth – refresh the palate. If there’s room, get a torched-at-the-table marshmallow ice-cream that kids (and TikTok) love.

Good to know: Built-in exhausts over the tabletop grills mean no lingering odours on your favourite coat.

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