This cavernous venue zooms in on dishes of Turkey’s central and eastern regions. Its smooth, sand-coloured walls and dim lighting play off against colourful ornaments, and lively staff share their love of the cuisine.

Mezedes set things in motion. Mantu, the tiny lamb dumplings, come plunked on garlic yoghurt with mint and burnt butter. Lahmacun pide are made to order and filled with more lamb, this time spiced with cumin and sumac. Kalamar dolma – squid stuffed with mixed grain pilaf – makes use of the kitchen’s wood-fired oven, and grilled chicken thighs with velvety walnut paste are equally infused with smoke and char.

A mosaic of reasonably priced Australian and Turkish wines includes okuzgozu, a blackcurrant-driven steal at $16 a glass. Stay for robust Turkish coffee and kunefe, made with countless strands of brittle pastry, sweet syrup and mild cheese.

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