Follow the charcoal scent down Lygon Street to a spacious dining hall filled with groups chatting over chai and biryani. Inside, the room is simple but warm, trimmed in red, gold and black. Pakistani favourites from many regions are represented.

There’s northern golgappa – crisp, golden spheres of fried wheat flour filled with potato, chickpeas and sweet spiced water. Pakistan’s national dish, nihari, is a richly spiced beef stew topped with ginger and green chilli that twinkles on the tongue. Mop up any sauce with a biryani.

Wrap juicy yet well-crusted chicken kebabs from the tandoor in naan, roti or kulcha. It all lands at the table fast, including gajar ka halwa, a buttery sweet carrot pudding. Like much of Pakistan, the restaurant is dry, but you can always order a non-alcoholic malt drink or a spiced chai to close.

Good to know: Don’t miss the “traditional dishes” section hidden on the back page of the menu.

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