For a suburb with high disposable income, Brighton is seemingly lacking in smart, spendy restaurants. Henrys redresses the imbalance. The offering is clever, straightforward and fire-kissed. Dishes may look similar to those patrons will snap in Sicily or Santorini for their social media.

We’re talking peeled peppers, as red as a Porsche 911, parked on herb oil and draped with preserved anchovies. There’s a waft of oregano, a tickle of red wine vinegar. Octopus – cooked slowly then hit with the grill – flops around with white taramasalata and lush drizzles of salmoriglio, a parsley, garlic and lemon dressing.

Every table seems to order the chilli crab linguine. Pair it with a glass of flinty, aromatic malagouzia roditis, a Greek white-wine blend, and you’ll wonder if you really need a Euro summer when bayside Melbourne has it sorted.

Best for: Lunch with the ladies, posh pizza with the kids, a first date or a 40th birthday.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.