Scale a discreet stairway to find a Francophile’s wonderland: a light-filled haven of bentwood chairs, distressed timber floors and a zinc-topped bar. Surrender to the fantasy with petit chablis and a dainty, caviar-crowned pastry cylinder bulging with luscious Brillat-Savarin triple-cream.

Cheese is deployed lavishly and taken seriously – no coincidence at a bistro with close connections to Spring Street Grocer, one of Melbourne’s finest affineurs. Half the room seems to order oysters and signature steak frites – and why not? Rustic pork terrine is just as worthy, matched in proportion by doorstops of grilled sourdough.

Perky pillows of Parisian-style gnocchi rest in golden splendour on velvety spinach sauce and dabs of goat curd. Charming, intuitive staff advise on Franco-focused wines for superbly aged cheeses, and dispatch warm madeleines and coffee, your signal to return to reality.

Good to know: Sun’s shining? Ask for a table on the petite terrace.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.