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13/20Critics' Pick

El Columpio

Updated ,first published

Lamb barbacoa tacos with chilli consomme.
1 / 7Lamb barbacoa tacos with chilli consomme.Penny Stephens
El Columpio is housed in a single shopfront.
2 / 7El Columpio is housed in a single shopfront.Penny Stephens
Pozole.
3 / 7Pozole.Penny Stephens
Chilaquiles.
4 / 7Chilaquiles.Penny Stephens
Outside the Johnston Street restaurant.
5 / 7Outside the Johnston Street restaurant.Penny Stephens
The tamales dish.
6 / 7The tamales dish.Penny Stephens
Mexican tchotchkes serve as decoration.
7 / 7Mexican tchotchkes serve as decoration.Penny Stephens
13/20Critics' Pick

El Columpio Fitzroy

Mexican$

Casual eatery serving lesser-seen home-style favourites.

Swing on over to this knick knack-packed eatery on weekends for hangover-curing chilaquiles, Mexico’s fried and salsa-drenched tortilla chips, and hibiscus-flavoured agua fresca. Barbacoa tacos, a labour of love, are generously stacked with tender slow-cooked lamb.

The meat is so juicy it doesn’t want for salsa, but you can dip each tortilla into the accompanying pot of consomme. The broth has more intensity and ties to its homeland more than what you’ll find at some trendier quesabirrias around town. Soups are satisfying meals in themselves – perhaps pozole with hominy and traditional accoutrements, or deeply smoky sopa azteca piled with tortilla strips that straddle the crisp-soft precipice.

Like its namesake, the swing, El Columpio is prone to the occasional ebb, but quality taco fillings and a complimentary shot of mezcal on your birthday tip the pendulum.

Good to know: Barbacoa and tamales are only available at weekends.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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