El Columpio Fitzroy
Mexican$
Casual eatery serving lesser-seen home-style favourites.
Swing on over to this knick knack-packed eatery on weekends for hangover-curing chilaquiles, Mexico’s fried and salsa-drenched tortilla chips, and hibiscus-flavoured agua fresca. Barbacoa tacos, a labour of love, are generously stacked with tender slow-cooked lamb.
The meat is so juicy it doesn’t want for salsa, but you can dip each tortilla into the accompanying pot of consomme. The broth has more intensity and ties to its homeland more than what you’ll find at some trendier quesabirrias around town. Soups are satisfying meals in themselves – perhaps pozole with hominy and traditional accoutrements, or deeply smoky sopa azteca piled with tortilla strips that straddle the crisp-soft precipice.
Like its namesake, the swing, El Columpio is prone to the occasional ebb, but quality taco fillings and a complimentary shot of mezcal on your birthday tip the pendulum.
Good to know: Barbacoa and tamales are only available at weekends.
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