Settle in anywhere at this dumpling bolthole and witness the precision pinching happening in the open kitchen. There, a fleet of composed Aunties roll and fill perfectly supple dough with the flavours of Northeast China and beyond. Begin with the satiny Sichuan wontons.

Plump with pork and prawn, and topped with fish roe, they arrive swimming in slurpable chilli oil that’s a thrilling fight of red chilli, Sichuan peppercorns, hot oil and sesame seeds. Tame the fireworks with egg and chive boiled dumplings dragged through soy and black vinegar.

Sides are equally rewarding: sesame oil-glazed cucumber salad and mild strands of shredded bean curd are both fresh accompaniments for golden-bottomed, pan-fried dumplings packed with pork and pickled cabbage. Grab yourself a suan mei tang, China’s addictive smoky plum drink, sit back and enjoy the dough to a soundtrack of sweet mainland Mandopop.

Must-order: Spicy stirring wontons.

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