Cumulus is about to turn 16 – fitting, because it’s as sweet as ever. There’s the laser-like focus on exceptional produce, seen in signatures that transcend fads, such as wild-caught yellowfin tuna tartare boosted by minty crushed peas. Simple dishes get just as much care from the kitchen: roasted Spud Sisters potatoes are revved up with confit garlic and salty pops of caper.

Some regulars come in for these, oysters and a crisp glass of white, we’re told. Plump roast chook shines anew, splashed with sherry-charged jus and paired with creamed leeks. Like most Andrew McConnell venues, there’s a wine list both broad and interesting and a timeless fit-out, with warehouse ceilings that help quell the happy din. Polished staff weave among bentwood chairs, eager to make every table feel special. Among the new and flashy, consistency like this stands out.

Good to know: Half serves of most dishes are available including the crowd-favourite lamb shoulder.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.