The boom-and-bust rollercoaster that is St Kilda has seen the rise and demise of many legendary venues, yet Cicciolina has been doing its dark and handsome European thing for nearly three decades. Like the rock star who gets cooler with age, it has bohemian swagger in spades, plus personable floor staff, a raucous back bar and a menu geared to what the people want: crab souffle, impeccable steak and tarte tatin.