You can bet the chateau there’ll be half a duck to sink your teeth into at this French charmer. But should the menu list a half-chook, secure it by any means necessary. The crispest skin. The supplest flesh. The gaggle of candied carrots in tow. Get comfy on a plush turquoise banquette, add a smashable Cotes du Rhone cinsault and maybe a cheeky side of frites.

The rest of the supporting cast is just as pleasing, whether it’s cheesy leeks baked to wilting splendour under golden pangrattato, or jaunty smoked cheddar croquettes shaped into perfect rectangles.

Detour to South Africa for its national dessert, malva, an apricot jam pudding you could fall asleep on if it weren’t for all that hot, gooey caramel sauce and whipped cream atop. It’s deceptively simple cooking, but delivered with more panache than Plume’s unassuming suburban facade would suggest. Step inside.

Good to know: The $30 Sunday roast would be a steal at twice the price.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.