A palatial display of carpets, intricate embroidery and paintings surrounds diners at this spacious Dandenong institution. Though the interiors are regal, dishes tend toward rustic and earthy. Smoke permeates a trio of kebabs atop fluffy variegated flatbread, the minced lamb skewer flecked with a generous handful of coriander leaves.

A spectrum of rice dishes are proudly showcased. Biryani pulao hosts tender chunks of chicken in a mountain of basmati fragrant with cumin and cardamom, while Kabuli pulao sees long grains braised in stock then topped with a lush melange of caramelised carrots and raisins. A whole slow-braised lamb shank hides coquettishly beneath.

Mantu dumplings are soft steamed beauties filled with minced lamb and sweet onions, finished with lentils and herbed yoghurt. Huge groups from the local community celebrate here – the restaurant may even stop to sing happy birthday to a bashful teen.

Best for: A gregarious group outing with curious eaters.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.