You might be a little open-mouthed at the name, but this 20-year-old stalwart isn’t battering mugil cephalus. Instead, you’re more likely to find Glacier 51 toothfish in a shiitake suimono – an umami-rich broth brightened with anise and chilli, or fried king prawns, propped tail-up on a bed of roasted oat flakes.

While seafood is a strength, the menu roams widely, from spice rubbed quail to Tajima wagyu steaks. Tufted banquettes and sleek copper lighting set a polished tone, while walls lined with bottles hint at the depth of the wine program. The list spans more than 60 pages (or rather, iPad screens) filled with prized finds curated over two decades by owner and collector Lou Perri.

At times, the food leans more on technique than flavour, but the well-stocked cellar, and warm, intuitive service step in to fill the gaps. The name is just a red herring that adds to the charm.

Good to know: The Stunned Mullet recently launched an online wine store with some great verticals of iconic producers.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.