Oversized floral displays and dramatic botanical photography fill a high-ceilinged dining space that hums with energy.

The menu riffs on loved Australian classics and global influences, with a few clever adjustments to keep the hit-list sharp. Golden, crisp potato scallops make a fine opener, grown by Orange’s tuber guru “Farmer Doug”. Add local black truffle if the seasons align.

Gelatinous roast bone marrow marries well with green tomato and English mustard, and gets along great guns with some high-altitude pinot noir. (The wine list can outpace cellar stocks at times, but staff are helpful with alternate local suggestions.)

Overall, the menu roams wide, from sweet and blackened char siu pork chop to smoky eggplant with labneh, onion and sumac. A honey-joy inspired brulee scattered with frosted cornflakes neatly closes the nostalgia loop.

Must order: Farmer Doug’s potato scallop with local truffle.

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