Professional kitchens that specialise in one kind of dish have existed since professional kitchens were invented. London’s jellied eel stalls. Fukuoka’s tonkotsu ramen shops. The smashburgers at Robs in Rozelle.

In 2023 when Lingqi Yang found it hard to track down the cheung fun she grew up with in Guangzhou, she opened Taste of Canton next to a car wash (the original has closed, but the Ultimo outpost still pumps), bringing the rippled, silky steamed rice noodle rolls to Sydneysiders.

Made to order by steaming a rice flour mixture in a car bonnet-sized pan, each serve comes with your choice of egg, prawn, pork or giving brisket in a rich, savoury chu hou sauce.

Pork buns, black bean ribs and (a very good) preserved egg congee bulk up the menu, and don’t forget to help yourself to the house-made garlic and mushroom soy sauce from the condiment station.

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