Shang Lamb Soup has a lived-in quality. The menus are frayed, the drinks and chopsticks are self-serve, the specials are scrawled in chalk behind the counter. It exists to showcase the bold flavours of Shanxi, so if you’re into cumin, salt, and all things ovine, come on down.

The namesake bowl is the main reason to visit: bone broth, the colour of skimmed milk, embracing sliced lamb that’s been marinated, stewed, rested, grilled and chilled over the past two days. It’s a clean, complex and gentle soup, lifted by the just-after-the-rain grassiness of fresh coriander. Add salt and white pepper to taste; dip a chewy round of bread if you need more carbs.

There are barbecued lamb skewers – and crisp, giving ribs, and a whole damn shank – served with sweet-salty cumin for sprinkling. Lamb heart, lung and tripe form the generous “guts” soup, while the lamb fried rice is a sure pick on tables of ravenous regulars, all unfailingly over-ordering.

And don’t sleep on the soupless bowl of raggedy flat noodles and spring onion, scalded with hot oil just before serving and punching with garlic, chilli and soy.

Good to know: There is a Chatswood branch – The Lamb Lab – too.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.