Sean McConnell’s tendency to buck convention has delivered Canberrans some great meals – no more so than at his first family venture, Rebel Rebel. It could be his gumption to back in a dish of wagyu tongue lifted by a sweet sherry vinegar reduction and green Aleppo peppers. Or it might be his confidence in transforming a humble sugarloaf cabbage, its charred exterior and steamed inner leaves imparting nutty, sweet and smoky characters amid a lively dressing of tahini and harissa oil.

Flexible dining hours also break with formula, accommodating a pre-concert cocktail with Sydney rock oysters or an epic lunch of charred, rare chunks of rib-eye doused in wakame butter. An edgy wine list and consistent service supports the journey. There’s a lively tone but the proto punk-inspired playlist is absorbed well by the exposed high ceiling of reclaimed hardwood.

Good to know: Rebel Rebel also runs a mini bottle shop at the entrance – stock up.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.