It feels right to cosy up close to the open kitchen in this sliver of raw brick and wine-red timber. Seated at the counter you can best enjoy the sloshing and tossing of fresh pasta and the occasional burst of flame as Venice-born chef Omar Ahmed’s congenial team adeptly assemble Italian classics.

Seasonal set menus offer rare value with three courses (antipasti, primo and secondo) dipping as low as $59 per person. An extra $10 adds hunks of focaccia to dip in your fusilli’s Italian sausage ragu, dunk in the cream-and-crunch party of pistachio-topped burrata, or swipe through whatever remains of the rich, fragrant tomato sauce after the little pillows of gnochetti ricotta are gone.

On the a la carte, a dry-aged hanger steak can easily feed two, likewise the generous bowl of tiramisu, featuring those pistachios reprising their duet with cream. Meanwhile, an almost-all-Italian wine list roams the regions at pocket-friendly prices.

Good to know: Aperitivi, including the Noigroni and Noi Spritz, feature Noi’s excellent homemade vermouth.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.