Nico Ronconi cut his teeth working in big, busy Italian restaurants like Fratelli Fresh and Matteo Downtown, so he’s had plenty of time to work out what he’d like to cook if he had his own place. The answer seems to be anything sunny, lemony and Italian, with a focus on good wine poured by co-owner and manager Ewa Witkowska.

The Amalfi Coast vibe suits the large room – dressed in tones of blue and ochre, with long banquette seating and a bottle-lined bar – and the menu rewards midweek diners while still offering plenty for grander weekend feasts.

That same through line also sees a negroni lightened with limoncello, squid-shaped calamarata pasta (all the pasta is good, by the way) with calamari brightened by finger lime, and carpaccio-style Hokkaido scallops sharpened with pickled fennel. Like the restaurant, the limoncello tiramisu is a fresh take on the familiar, injected with extra tang.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.