“Happy hour” is surely on a par with “foot massage” and “rate cut” as one of the best bywords for glee. And this glammed-up corner bar is just about the happiest place on Earth for the after-work set, thanks to $10 negronis and $1.50 oysters (Wednesdays only). Throw in complimentary house-made salt-and-vinegar crisps and you might as well be in Disneyland.

Settling into an olive-green leather banquette for the full restaurant menu delivers more delights. Oysters come natural, in-your-face beer-battered with habanero-hot mayonnaise or Kilpatrick-style with sweet and smoky maple-cured bacon.

Old school classics include bullish Black Angus sirloin with Cafe de Paris butter and fries or grilled lamb chops with crackling-like crust and rich mint jelly, while a bright salad of salt baked baby beets, figs and sheep’s milk yoghurt is as colourful as a carnival. Happy as.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.