With the advent of the metro, suddenly the Hills district has an influx of Sydney favourites setting up shop, including Gelato Messina, Mary’s and El Jannah. Before them, however, there was Modo Mio, which has quietly held its own since 2018.

Naples-born chef Stefano Bozza, who joined three years ago, brings heavyweight credentials, while his wife Giulia is also in the kitchen as sous, rounding out an all-Italian team. It’s a sleek intimate affair, with table lamps and tablecloths, and a wood-fired oven takes centre stage, blistering pizza that combines the pillowy crust of Naples and the crisp bite of Rome.

For pasta, fregola alle vongole takes you straight to the Sardinian coast, while paccheri al pomodoro delivers a luscious, saucy experience. The tone is jolly, the wine is Italian, and the intent to go their own way is plenty refreshing. As longtime locals might say, this is not the Hills you remember.

Good to know: Consider pre-ordering the veal and pork tortellini in brodo when you book, served tableside in clear broth.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.