Is this Canberra’s most personal dining room? Inch for inch, it has to be up there, the tiny 22-seat space anchored by a marble bar fronting the kitchen, with green banquettes, glowing lights and a dining nook for two a backdrop for objects that speak of home.

Home is the key word at Minima, too, referencing Mork and Benn Ratanakosol’s experience as third-culture kids, the one-page menu drawing on their own childhood, among Thai, Chinese, South-East Asian and European influences. Pick the $85 tasting menu, and it’ll mean a Vegemite profiterole filled with bottarga cream for starters, followed by textural cucumber and jellyfish salad, then pork dumplings lolling in bone broth and chilli.

Dishes can feel a bit assembly-line, but there’s no arguing with the depth of flavour in a lamb rendang-massaman mashup for main course. Nor with the care and consideration given to the wine list. Lucky Yarralumla.

Good to know: Minima offers BYO, but if you bring a bottle Tuesdays to Thursdays, they’ll waive the corkage.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.